A Walking Tour of The Sunset Strip – Part 1

I heart L.A. so much that I wrote a love letter disguised as a romance novel, ‘Los Angeles, I’m Yours‘ which is available as an eBook (and FREE in Kindle Unlimited) or paperback from Amazon (UK / US).

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Sofia Taylor might live in L.A. and be the daughter of rock royalty but that doesn’t mean that she wants to be in the spotlight. She’s designed her life to be quiet and simple, content with working in the mail room at Andretti Records while secretly writing most of the company’s hit songs in her backyard studio under the pseudonym, S Klein.

Dylan Andrews ditched his father’s conspicuous last name as soon as he graduated from high school and has spent the last few years building a successful career in publishing on the opposite side of the country in Manhattan. When he’s summoned back to L.A. he understands that he’s going to be taking over as CEO of his father’s company, Andretti Records but he’s left stunned when his father insists that he go through a fake internship in the mail room first so he can learn more about the company.

Sofia is asked to mentor Dylan and they quickly bond over Frida Kahlo street art, grilled coconut milk and five-spice pork buns. Their friendship blossoms into romance as they explore downtown L.A. together but what will happen when the secrets they’ve both been keeping are finally revealed?

If you’re looking for a fun, flirty romance to brighten up a dull, rainy day, why not join Sofia and Dylan as they discover a terrifying glass slide, a house of mosaics, chicken curry on a pizza and lots more oddities in sunny L.A.

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I’m finally going back there for a vacation at the end of February (#soexcited) and what better way to celebrate than by blogging about the places I’m most looking forward to exploring whilst we’re there.

On Sunset Strip (which is where we’ll be staying), you’re literally surrounded by literary, celluloid and rock music history so I’ve put together a walking tour of the Sunset Strip: Old & New. I hope you enjoy!

Starting at 8024 Sunset Boulevard (the former site of Schwab’s Pharmacy) and ending at 9039 (the former site of Gazzarri’s nightclub), the whole tour covers approximately 1.5 miles but I’ve split it into four blog posts because there’s a lot to talk about.

(8024) SCHWAB’S PHARMACY (Closed)

You’re going to need to bear with me because we’re actually starting our tour at a place that doesn’t exist anymore (but there is a Starbucks nearby in case you need to caffeinate before we begin so…).

From 1932-83, 8024 was home to Schwab’s “the world’s most famous pharmacy.” In addition to being a drugstore, it also had a soda and lunch counter and was known as the headquarters by Hollywood’s elite.

Side Note: If you want to know more about a particular location, don’t worry I’ll include plenty of references along the way.

Reference: A Look Back: L.A.’s Schwab’s Pharmacy Was More Than A Drugstore

Sadly, one of the most famous legends about Schwab’s isn’t actually true. A 16-year-old LANA TURNER (1921-95) (Actress) wasn’t discovered at Schwab’s in January 1937 by MERVYN LeROY (1900-87) (Director) after ditching high school to grab a soda there.

Photo Credit: Public Domain @ Wikimedia Commons.

Most of it was correct but Lana was at the Top Hat Café (6750 Sunset Boulevard), one block east of Hollywood High School when she was discovered by WILLIAM WILKERSON (1890-1962) (Founder of The Hollywood Reporter) who referred her to ZEPPO MARX (1901-79) (Agent). The Top Hat Café went on to be so popular that the owner was able to retire early and after it closed, LEON SCHWAB appropriated the legend for Schwab’s (Playground to the Stars).

However, a legend that does appear to be true is that F. SCOTT FITZGERALD (1896-1940) (Writer) did indeed have a mild heart attack while waiting in line at Schwab’s in November 1940. Afterwards, his doctor ordered him to stay in bed so he moved into the ground-floor apartment of his lover, SHEILAH GRAHAM (1904-88) (Gossip Columnist). His estranged wife, ZELDA FITZGERALD (1900-48) was living with her mother in Montgomery, AL at the time. Unfortunately, he didn’t continue to follow doctor’s orders because on 20 December 1940, he attended the premiere of This Thing Called Love (1940) at the Pantages Theatre and suffered a dizzy spell while leaving. He would pass away from coronary arteriosclerosis the following day (Library of America Blog).

Schwab’s also plays a minor role in the writing of 20th century’s No. 1 song, ‘Over The Rainbow’ from The Wizard of Oz (1939) . HAROLD ARLEN (1905-86) (Composer) was driving to Grauman’s Chinese Theater when he was struck by inspiration. He asked his wife, Anya to stop the car in front of Schwab’s so he could jot down the music (Columbia News).

An exact replica of Schwab’s was built on the Paramount Studios backlot for the filming of the classic movie, Sunset Boulevard (1950).

Sadly, the building which was home to Schwab’s was demolished on 6 October 1988.

(8118) PANDORA’S BOX (Closed)

A coffee shop and nightclub, Pandora’s Box is best remembered for being at the centre of the Sunset Strip Curfew Riots.

In 1966, tensions flared between residents and business owners on the Strip and music fans after a strict 10pm curfew was implemented to stop traffic congestion. Rock music fans took this as an infringement of their civil rights and launched protests.

On 12 November 1966, a huge rally was held outside Pandora’s Box to protest against the repressive enforcement of the new curfew and loitering laws with demonstrators including JACK NICHOLSON and PETER FONDA (1940-2019). The unrest continued for the next 2 x months with authorities rescinding the under 21 permits for 12 x clubs on the Strip.

L.A. City Council eventually voted to acquire and demolish Pandora’s Box and it was torn down in August 1967.

(8152) THE GARDEN OF ALLAH (Closed)

8152 might look unassuming now but it’s got a rich history. It started out as Hayvenhurst, a twelve-bedroom estate built by WILLIAM HAMILTON HAY (1865-1946) (Real Estate Developer) in 1913. William and his wife didn’t stay at Hayvenhurst very long though and it was leased and then purchased by ALLA NAZIMOVA (1879-1945) (Actress) in 1919.

Alla is best known for starring in the silent movie, Salome (1922) which has become a cult classic. She renamed 8152 Garden of Alla after her own first (stage) name and the novel, The Garden of Allah (1904) by ROBERT S. HICHENS (1964-1950).

Photo Credit: Mishkin Studio, Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

After leaving her contract with Metro Pictures, Alla funded her own films and when the money began to run out, she built 25 x villas around the original property (The Garden of Alla Hotel) to provide her with rental income. Unfortunately, it wasn’t sufficient and in 1928, Alla sold her interest in the hotel and returned to Broadway. After she became ill, she returned to L.A. and rented Villa 24 at the renamed The Garden of Allah Hotel where she lived until her death in 1945.

Before Chateau Marmont, The Garden of Allah was the go-to (Gar)den of debauchery. For more details, check out Hedonist Hollywood’s Lost Garden of Allah and This Hotel Kept All The Secrets of the Rich and Famous… Until Now.

Sadly on 19 July 1942, ‘The Garden of Allah’ was also the site of a murder when CARL ALDINGER, who was working as a night clerk in the hotel’s lobby, was shot 5 times and killed by FARRINGTON HILL during an attempted robbery (West Hollywood History).

In 1959, BART LYTTON bought the hotel and demolished it in order to build a new branch for Lytton Savings & Loan.

(8221) CHATEAU MARMONT (Website)

Hooray, you don’t need to use your imagination for this next stop because the Chateau Marmont is still here!

Photo Credit: Tony Mariotti, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

References: L.A. Confidential: The History of Secrecy at Chateau Marmont by Shawn Levy, Author of The Castle on Sunset: Life, Death, Love, Art and Scandal at Hollywood’s Chateau Marmont and Secrets of the Chateau Marmont by Mark Rozzo.

CM first opened on 1 February 1929 as an apartment building. Owner, FRED HOROWITZ (Attorney) asked his brother-in-law, ARNOLD A. WEITZMAN to design the building based on Chateau d’Amboise (Photo) in the Loire Valley in France.

Photo Credit: Ввласенко, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

It was named Chateau Marmont after Marmont Lane, the small street running across the front of the property.

Because of the Great Depression, Fred sold CM to ALBERT E. SMITH (1875-1958) (Vitagraph Studios) in 1931 for $750k cash. Hoping to attract visitors to L.A. for the 1932 Summer Olympics, Albert converted it into a hotel. Because it hadn’t been built as a hotel and therefore didn’t have a grand entrance, lobby, restaurant, bar, shops or pool, CM had a natural privacy which quickly appealed to Hollywood stars looking for a discreet hideaway. One of these was leading sex symbol of the 1930s, JEAN HARLOW (1911-37) who moved into the CM in 1933 with her third husband, HAROLD ROSSON (1895-1988). The short-lived marriage (1933-35) had been arranged by her studio, MGM. Jean and Harold rented separate units, which allowed her to entertain guests including her lover, CLARK GABLE (1901-60).

In the 1940s, Albert sold CM to ERWIN BRETTAUER (1884-1973) (Banker), who installed a swimming pool which gave the hotel its first gathering space. CM under Erwin’s ownership welcomed everybody regardless of their race or sexual orientation. DUKE ELLINGTON (1899-1974) was the first black entertainer to stay there. Closeted actors ANTHONY PERKINS (1932-92) and TAB HUNTER (1931-2018) met at the CM swimming pool and began a 2-year affair. It isn’t all positive though because this tolerance also allowed NICHOLAS RAY (1911-79) (Director) to engage in predatory relationships with 2 x underage stars of Rebel Without A Cause (1955) – NATALIE WOOD (1938-81) & SAL MINEO (1939-76) – whilst he rented a bungalow at CM for 8 years.

On 5 March 1982, JOHN BELUSHI (1949-82) (Comedian) was found dead in Bungalow 3 at the CM. The cause of death was combined drug intoxication (cocaine and heroin aka a “speedball”).

HELMUT NEWTON (1920-2004) (Photographer) spent every winter at the CM and on 23 January 2004, he passed away after suffering a heart attack whilst driving down Marmont Lane from the CM to Sunset Boulevard.

In 1975, RAYMOND R. SARLOT & KARL KANTARJIAN (Real Estate Developers) bought CM for $1.1m. They were looking for a tax write-off but after Raymond divorced, he was forced to move in and fell in love with the hotel. With FRED E. BASTEN, Raymond co-authored the book, Life at the Marmont: The Inside Story of Hollywood’s Legendary Hotel of the Stars – Chateau Marmont.

ANDRE BALAZS (Hotelier) purchased CM in 1990 for $12m. More recently, his ownership of the hotel has been plagued by controversy (Page Six).

If you want a budget-friendly view of inside CM, the movie, Somewhere (2010) was granted exclusive access to film extensively inside the rooms and on the grounds of the hotel. It was directed by SOFIA COPPOLA, who had her 21st birthday at the hotel (LA Weekly)

 

 (8225) PINK TACO (Website)

Photo Credit: Sdpincus, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

The restaurant chain, PT was founded by HARRY MORTON (1981-2019). A former owner of another iconic Sunset Boulevard venue, The Viper Room, Harry was the son of PETER MORTON, who co-founded the Hard Rock Café chain (the first Pink Taco restaurant opened in 1999 at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Paradise, NV) and grandson of ARNIE MORTON (1922-2005), founder of Morton’s The Steakhouse. Sadly, Harry passed away from sudden cardiac arrest due to undiagnosed coronary artery disease at his home in Beverly Hills, CA.

What’s interesting about 8225 Sunset Boulevard isn’t just the controversially named Pink Taco but the establishments that were there previously. Yep, it’s time to use that good, old imagination again.

The renovations to 8225 for Pink Taco revealed remnants of PRESTON STURGES (1898-1959) (Playwright / Screenwriter / Director) The Players’ Club (1940-53) including the revolving circular band stage and entrance to the legendary VIP tunnel which led from TPC to Chateau Marmont (although it’s long been sealed by the city) (ArtsMeme).

With Preston’s Hollywood connections and its location (close to both Chateau Marmont and the Garden of Allah), TPC was popular with celebrities. The problem was that Preston, with his wealthy background, might have been a seasoned habitué of such establishments but he wasn’t a great businessman. With his grandiose ideas, overheads were high and whenever he wanted to be alone with his friends (which happened a lot); he simply closed TPC to the public. The club never broke even which was OK when Preston was still under contract at Paramount because he could subsidize the costs but after he left the studio in 1944, his income became more sporadic. The final straw came when Preston discovered that his bookkeeper had been embezzling from him and The Players’ Club was sold by his creditors.

Reference: ‘Playing at the Players’ by Martin Turnbull.

From 1953-87, 8225 was home to the Japanese restaurant, Imperial Gardens. It was followed by the Roxbury until 1997. The Roxbury inspired the movie, A Night at the Roxbury (1998) and more importantly as a fan of Beverly Hills 90210 (1990-2000) (RIP Luke Perry), it was where SHANNEN DOHERTY (aka Brenda in BH 90210) was cited for alleged misdemeanour battery after getting into a shoving match with BONITA MONEY on 2 December 1992 (AP News).

After the Roxbury and before Pink Taco, 8225 was another Japanese restaurant, Miyagi’s.

That’s it for today’s blog post but make sure you come back tomorrow for Part 2.

Thanks for reading, Louise x